Idre Mountain Marathon (Fjällmaraton)

It happened that my wife and I were staying with family in Idre in central Sweden. When planning for this we were unaware that a mountain marathon was taking place the same time we would be there! Without too much thought I signed up for the Idre Fjällmaraton. ’Fjäll’ sounds and means much the same as the English word ‘fell’ as used in the Lake District mountains.

My summer had not gone to plan. I had an accident in May on a mountainside ( ‘best laid plans’ ).  As a result my much anticipated expedition in the Outer Hebrides with running buddy Cammie had to be cancelled. Also recovery from injury is taking much longer than expected and in July also got a bad bout of Covid. 

It would be a change to again take part in an organised race. It has been nearly 2 years since I have done so. Lately I have preferred to just run self planned challenges. In Idre there were 4 trail runs taking place. They would showcase the wonderful nature of the area. As if to emphasise this they were named the grouse (8km), wolf (18km), bear (28km) and reindeer (45km) trails. Along with about 650 others I was doing the reindeer route with 1,400m ascent and descent.

I didn’t want to underestimate the challenge. The race’s strapline was ‘the feeling of being invincible’. This didn’t resonate with me. All long distance runs have left me feeling humbled rather than invincible. Whatever, my expectations were to enjoy the time. 

The 45km reindeer course (‘Renens stig’). Route was clockwise.

Saturday 24th August

At 9 a.m. about 650 of us assembled at IdreFjäll main square. I was the only one coming from the UK (2 other Brits were there but lived in Sweden). There were also only a handful from other nations. Very much a Swedish event and this was underscored by the singing of their national anthem.

Relaxing beforehand.

The indigenous minority population of the area are the Sami people***. They have their own distinct language and culture and inhabit the northern parts of Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Russia’s Kola Peninsula. They have traditionally managed reindeer herds and their right to do this is protected by law. A Sami woman sang for us a herding song known as ‘kulning’. There is a one minute YouTube example here. With its haunting sounds some variations are understandably said to scare away wildlife such as wolf, bear and wolverines. Maybe it was meant to be reassuring!! Anyhow it wasn’t long before we were herded off.

The sky was clear and the sun shining. A welcome contrast to the dark, wet day before. We would see the kinder, gentler side of this wilderness. That was fine with me! And so we set off through the ski lift area. I was determined to take it easy. My goal was simply to finish and so took the time to take photos of the journey. Without too much comment this is mainly what follows.

Start at Idre Fjäll.
Heading off towards Burusjön
Along the shore of a peaceful lake Burusjön shortly before first checkpoint

After Burusjön a climb up through lightly wooded area.

Then it was on to open fell country known in Swedish as kalfjäll. Everywhere as far as the eye can see carpeted with lingon berries, blueberries and the more bitter crow berries. Unfortunately too late in the season for cloudberries. One thing for sure is that you wouldn’t go hungry!

Moving into more wooded area. Muddy and lots of bogs.
An informal checkpoint at Svens Foskdallsvallen (20km)
Approaching checkpoint at Nipfjället (23km)

Nearing the checkpoint at Nipfjället I was greeted by my wife and several of her family. They had been patiently waiting. As halfway point it was a welcome and refreshing interlude.

Then it was off towards the distinctively shaped Städjan. Despite its conic appearance it is not volcanic. The mountain is said to have inspired the writer of the Swedish National anthem which had been played at the start.

Ascending over the shoulder of Städjan was the highest point of the route.

After descending it wasn’t long before we were back in the woods and mud. At one point I was surprised by a fellow who popped in front of me with a microphone. It was the race YouTube broadcast channel. He was curious to know what I thought of the race. Not sure I made much sense running and talking in a curious mixture of Swedish and English. Being the only runner who had come from the UK had some novelty value I suppose.

The last 3 or 4km was several times up and down the ski lift complex at the top of Idre Fjäll. Wandering around these man made structures seemed a contrast to the wild and beautiful landscape just travelled through. The final 2km was downhill

My finish time was 7 hours 47 mins. It was a great day made all the better by the weather, well supplied checkpoints, super scenery and great companions along the way. Grateful to God for the strength to have taken part and experience again something of the wonder of His creation.

Bright coloured lichen on stones everywhere. The intensity of colours testifying to the air quality.

*** An interesting aside for me was to hear on the local radio that the New Testament had just been translated and now was published in the south Sami dialect. It was a 40 year labour of love.

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