Big Day (and Night) in the Mountains

Stob Ban

For about 12 years now I have recruited the help of others to support me in various long distance running efforts. To date I have never been a support runner for someone else. So when a friend Cammie Kennedy whom I regularly run with in the hills asked for help this was a chance to change that. Cammie hopes to do the Charlie Ramsay Round (CRR) this summer.

“The Ramsay Round, also known as the Charlie Ramsay Round, is a long distance hill running challenge near Fort William, Scotland. The route is a circuit of 58 miles (93 kilometres), taking in 24 summits with a total climb of around 28,500 feet (8,700 metres). Ben Nevis, Great Britain‘s highest peak, is included in the route along with 22 other Munros… The aim is for participants to complete the route, on foot, within 24 hours. Runners must start and finish at the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, and may run the route in either a clockwise or anticlockwise direction”.  

Ramsay_Round

Note for non-Scottish readers – a ‘Munro’ is a mountain in Scotland greater than 3,000 feet. Most of the Munros on the round have hard to pronounce names if you are not a Gaelic speaker. 

Start/ finish of last section from Loch Eilde Mor to Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. Yellow line is whole CRR route.

Much of the CRR is remote and hard to access. Quite a bit is unmarked over bog and boulder strewn terrain. Contenders need to work out the best lines up and down the mountains if they are going to go fast. Cammie (herein known as C) is planning on a clockwise route. There are really only 2 access points for support help. This splits the run into 3 sections. Originally I was to help him on the mid section and in August 2020 did a practice run with him covering that. However plan has changed and now am supporting on the last section, involving the last 10 of the 24 summits. 

A word about running support. Idea is that C doesn’t carry anything other than some drink, phone and a special GPS tracker linked to emergency services. I needed to carry clothing, food/ drink and any other gear he requires as well as my personal gear/ food etc. On his actual attempt he will have 3 support runners (incl. me) for the 3 sections as well as a couple providing logistics/ transport for the rest of us. 

This week in order to familiarise myself with the route and for C to plan his strategy we spent 2 days exploring this last section from transition point at Loch Eilde Mor to the finish at the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel outside Fort William. Depending on how things went C had in mind 3 possible places for us for overnight campsites.

A word about camping in the wild. I am someone who likes my creature comforts and have to say was not looking forward to this part of the survey. Camping experiences from earlier days have generally been memorable for their mishaps and misery. Unsurprisingly it has not been a pastime pursued in later life. As a student I took an Asian friend camping. My thought was it would be a good way for him to see Scotland. Our cooking gas canister exploded while we were in the 2 man tent on a hillside. My reaction was to immediately leap out of tent. I got away relatively easy with singed eyebrows and burnt hair. Remember the amusement of fellow students at the surprised looking facial expression I had in the weeks following. My friend however was paralysed with shock and remained longer in the flames and suffered more severe burns. Anyhow I digress.

On 1st May after a first early breakfast left home to Fort William and met up with C at 0830. Left his car at Glen Nevis youth hostel. Next up was  a 2nd breakfast at a well known chain beginning with M. Then we motored to Kinlochleven. Left car there and at 0940 began a 7km hike up to the transition point where I would meet him ‘on the day’. At last the actual support route was starting!

Leaving Kinlochleven

A word about maps. On paper or screen many of these grand mountains seem less than a km apart. Do not be deceived, a km can involve same effort as 10km elsewhere! It is a priviledge to visit such places of rugged beauty. However they demand respect and care. 

Transition Point, Loch Eilde Mor

At last at 1120 we began what would be the section I would be supporting C on. It starts with a long, slow slog up to Sgurr Eilde Mor. 

Looking up to Sgurr Eilde Mor from start

With camping gear and food we were each carrying 8-10 kg. With these loads and the terrain it meant that much of the time we were just trying to fast walk with the occasional run.

We then made a long descent where discussion centred around what was the best line to take and where to cross the stream in the valley below. C was trying to follow the line taken by the CRR record holder, Finlay Wild. Theory being if he was the fastest he must be taking the shortest lines between peaks. 

Then we ascended to reach a lochan (little lake) midway between Binnein Beag and Binnein Mor. They were the next 2 peaks on the list. Filled up with water from a stream. I was using purification tablets which may or may not have been necessary. There C left me with his gear as Binnein Beag was an out and back. He would do this on his own, and then return back to an agreed rendezvous point where I was waiting. I noticed almost immediately how chill it got hanging around. Need to layer up immediately when not moving. C was quick, only 30 mins. I think shedding a 10kg pack meant he felt like he was floating. 

Cammie ascending Binnein Beag (small figure in red)

We then ascended Binnein Mor. Still quite a lot of snow around and we aimed for the least snowed area. However when we reached snow level I found it a bit steep for me with no crampons. C carried on. I decided to go a long way around on ridge where there was no snow. Eventually we met up again on the summit.

C ahead of me on Binnein Mor, having taken the snowy route
View leaving summit of Binnein Mor ( 2 other walkers ahead of us)

Next up was the unpronounceable Na Gruigaichean. Reached by following a trail along a long ridge. After that next on the list was An Gearanach. Another out and back where I would wait for him. However C having done this mountain twice before decided not to do. So we climbed the next one Stob Coire a Chairn. By this point my memory is finding it hard to distinguish each top. Just awed by the ever changing vista of these grand mountains. We also ascended several tops that C would say were not classified as Munros. 

And so to the second last peak of the day, Am Bodach. Whether it had been a long day or not the ascent I found gruelling. It was only afterwards we discovered I could have taken a route avoiding the summit and rejoined him on his descent. Plan to do this on his actual CRR attempt. 

As we approached the last peak of the day Sgurr an Lubhair we also saw C’s last out and back for the day, Sgurr a Mhaim. We were at right angles to the long ridge that led to it. Known as the Devil’s Ridge it looked both imposing and an awful long way. The time was after 1800 and we both had the same thought. Why doesn’t he just do it early the next morning? Instead let’s do Sgurr an Lubhair and find our campsite for the night. Absolutely no objections to that! 

Campsite below Sgurr an Lubhair

C had loaned me a 1 man tent and he was bivouacing (basically sleeping in a bag). Despite him showing me twice how to set up tent I struggled. I find the whole process fiddly, a bit like trying to untangle nylon fishing line. Being weary and chilled probably also didn’t help. Sheepishly I asked for C’s help. 

The highlight was the long anticipated hot meal. Add boiled water to a bag of dehydrated food and wait 15 mins. Voila! A warm, nourishing chicken tikka with rice. Definitely the creature comfort highlight of the day. Add a miniature bottle of wine and some tea and it sounds quite luxurious. In reality the mist was descending and it felt quite desolate with a chill in the air. Sitting outside on stones I was starting to exaggerate in my mind how comfortable the tent would be. However first things first. C wanted to play cards! Now if it had been round a campfire I might have been excited. This felt a bit like an unnecessary continuation of what most of the day had been, a physical and mental challenge. In a true spirit of the support runner, I obliged. So we played ‘bothy’ cards. Even let him win (only kidding). Bothy is the name for a, usually remote and simple, shelter in Scotland. Walkers and climbers can use for free. It was an unasked for education in the variety and locations of bothies throughout Scotland. Glad he won first time and didn’t want to play more! As the sun set we were blessed with a beautiful pink glow on the hills

Unloading all the contents of my rucksack into the tent I then entered my ‘world’ for the night. The main feeling was the cold and just how little room there was to move around. Background noises were the gentle sounds of nature. The gurgling little stream we were beside and the occasional honking sound of the ptarmigan. A surprise was good WiFi reception. Had a rather surreal time listening for a while to choral worship music from Ireland. Truly the phone is another world in your hand.

Sleeping bag was warm everywhere except for head and shoulders. I had changed into dry clothes but needed more heat. Was very grateful for the chemical hand warmers I had brought. Clutched them for most of night. Unsuccessfully willing the heat from my hands to flow to head and shoulders. My super lightweight air filled ground mat was extremely slippy and hard to keep sleeping bag on. As said earlier my camping experience has not been marked by particularly happy memories. Finally got some fitful sleep and was glad when 0520 came. Time to rise! C was already up and after a brief greeting he left before his breakfast to do Sgurr a Mhaim, the Munro he missed the night before. 

In the meantime I devoured 2 left over tuna sandwiches from day before. Also boiled up water for 2 teas and a coffee and cooked breakfast. 

Cooked breakfast, sausage and beans.

Shortly after that C returned. Seemed energised from his first peak of the day. While he had his breakfast I packed my gear, eager to work up some heat from exertion. There was a pervading chill in the air so it was nice to set off at 0740 in the morning mist for Stob Ban. It’s profile was intimidating when seen the night before. Most of the route involved traversing well to the left of the vertigo inducing ridge. 

Top of Stop Ban

After Stob Ban only one Munro left. Involved a long and relatively gentle ridge ascent to Mullach nan Coirean. The mist came and went for much of the time. Sometimes Ben Nevis would loom over the whole marvellous range. 

It was now a long descent to Glen Nevis. Down, and down, to the road that led back to the youth hostel. Our adventure ended as it began with another calorie filled refuel in a well known fast food restaurant. 

It is an honour to be asked to help. When the time comes I hope to be of support in his epic challenge.

Cow Shed Backyard Ultra 16th April 2022

Field in Wheelbirks farm

My last blog ‘one yard at a time’ shared the plan to participate in a ‘backyard’ run. Decided to do the Cow Shed Backyard Ultra which took place in Wheelbirks Parlour, a farm in Northumberland, England. As Sat 16th April drew near I found myself going through the familiar routine of what running gear to take, food to eat etc. Some things never change! The difference this time is that it was not so logistically complicated. Every hour I return to where I began. It is easier than in a single stage long distance race. In such races the challenge is to anticipate what clothing, food and drink might be needed at a particular time and in places many km apart. For a ‘backyard’ it seemed you just brought everything I conceivably need (!) and have it at my pitch near the start line. Also not needing to carry anything other than adequate clothing whilst running would be a help. 

Once again Elisabeth kindly agreed(!) to support me. The prospect of her sitting in our car in a field was not very comfortable. In addition supporting me for a few minutes every hour for an unknown amount of time would be a challenge. Also there was my need for some degree of comfort to sit, rest and/or eat and drink each hour. These issues prompted us to hire a small campervan for the event. 

We motored down on Friday the day before to stay in the aforesaid field belonging to Wheelbirks farm. There was no running water but organisers provided portable toilets and a few other basic facilities. The field filled up with an assortment of tents and vans as well as those roughing it in cars. The following morning more arrived. 

The main twin-peaked tent beside the start/ finish line had a pavilion feel to it. It got me thinking it was the kind of place to watch a medieval jousting tournament. 

Start and finish

As with other ultras I tapered off training in the weeks before. Planning for a race of unknown length and duration had been a novel experience. My maximum training length was 7 laps, rounds or ‘yards’ as they are known. A ‘yard’ being 6.7km. The actual route was not known so could not be surveyed beforehand either. However we were told there would be approx. 150m climbing and descent each yard. The race involved doing 1 ‘yard’ every hour on the hour starting at 12 noon. Why this distance? If one continued for 24 hours you would cover exactly 100 miles (160 km). In retrospect nothing really prepared me for it more than actually doing it. Pre-race I naively had some thoughts as to what would constitute a good effort. What would happen ‘on the day’?

Competitors also included men and women representing teams from the 4 UK nations – Scotland, Wales, England and Northern Ireland. It was nice to meet some of the Scottish team both before the start and during the race. As ‘backyards’ are very new to the UK long distance running scene most had never done this before. However several were very experienced in 24 hour lap races.

Scottish team
All smiles, ready to go!

12 noon arrived and 115 of us set off. First round went well and had some good chats with fellow competitors. For most like myself it was our first ‘backyard‘. The route was very varied. Pathless routes round clumpy soft fields, gravel farm tracks, soft forest trails and muddy inclines and descents. It took me 50 mins which was what I had expected. On reflection I now see that my training rounds had not been on as rough, varied and often trackless terrain. I see now that 1 round in 50 mins. involved more effort than I had actually trained for. It felt hot on the trail yet the hourly ‘rests’ were chilling in comparison.

Garmin map of the Cow Shed round

Walked from finish line the 50m to my ‘aid station’- a table and chair outside our van. Elisabeth proferring food but didn’t need. Just a sit down and rest. The routine for each hour was that a whistle blew three times at 3 minutes before start of next round. Then two whistles at 2 mins and one whistle 1 minute before 1pm. Rules were you had to be in start corral by 10 seconds before or you would be out of race. The other way to be disqualified is to take longer than an hour for a round. This pattern would be repeated each hour. No supporters were allowed on the course, they had to remain in the start / finish field. 

Rounds 2 and 3 went by with roughly similar timings to my first round, 50-51 mins. This afforded me similar ‘rest’ times. I would start about 1/3rd back in the corral and let others speed off. Why do they do that? This race is not to the swift but to the consistent. By round 4 fatigue was setting in as my time slipped a few mins longer.

A few moments of bliss but oh so short?

There is a lot of psychology involved in a race like this. Robert would always be right at the front literally jumping around at the countdown to each start. As if to emphasise how easy he seemed to find it he also carried a rucksack. Each to his own. I had heard that a key strategy with the elite in this type of race is to give others the impression you are doing fine when you are not. Anyhow Robert would usually speed off at a sprint to be a few hundred metres ahead of everyone, then ease off. For hour after hour he was usually first back in 40-45 mins. Impressive but as said speed is not what is required. 

Back to my own race. Each hour became very hard to distinguish. By round 6 the effort involved mentally and physically was taking its toll. It was like starting a new race every hour but each time progressively more exhausted. Each round was becoming indistinguishable with the same views, people and similar emotions. Reminded me of the film ‘Groundhog Day’ – destined to relive the same experience over and over. 

This is not as straightforward as I thought!

The peculiar knock out nature of the event was obvious at the start corral. Towards the end of each hour some were coming in to complete their round at a sprint. They were being cheered in by the other runners getting set to start again. Remember especially one guy who gave his all to make the hour sprinting very fast. As he crossed the finish line the 10 second countdown for the next round started!

Round 7 and think it took me about 56 mins. My margin for rest was getting very small! Think Elisabeth saw I was pretty spent and revived me by dousing in drinking water. It reminded me of a boxer getting battered by a better opponent (in my case the clock). Each round retiring to the corner for a few minutes only to get up and battered again until finally knocked out. 

I managed to complete the 8th round in 58 minutes. Maybe I could have done another or maybe have failed to complete in an hour. However at that point I could not envisage a 2 minute break and doing exactly the same as the previous hour. It was enough and joined the 33 others who ‘did not finish’ at that point. These 33.3 miles (53.3km) left me more ‘done in’ than in 26-30 hours of running a ‘normal’ long distance race. To complete the humbling psychology of the event I was duly awarded a wooden spoon. It was marked DNF (‘Did Not Finish’). Also given a ’Cow Shed Ultra’ mug. The double meaning of the mug was not lost on me either! Elisabeth reckons that if I start to regularly make soup the ‘DNF’ on the spoon will go away! Not sure the psychological scars will disappear so easily (only joking!).

In most races the winner comes in first and is applauded by everyone present. In this ‘last person standing’ event the winner comes in long after just about everybody else goes home. We stayed Saturday night in the field with our slumber punctuated each hour by the 3, 2 and 1 minute bell. Leaving the campsite sometime after 1pm the following day we watched the 4 remaining competitors battle it out. 3 men (including Robert) and 1 woman moving through their 26th lap.

After 29 hours and 29 rounds there were 2 left; Sarah and Paul. They fought together for 3 more hours until Paul decided he could do no more and didn’t start round 33. The rules are that the last person starting must finish another round, otherwise there is no winner. So Sarah Perry set off on her 33rd round. Delighted to say that this English primary school teacher completed a staggering 137.5 miles or in metric terms 220km. The one and only finisher and winner of the 2022 Cow Shed Backyard.

Sara’s feat is extraordinary. Her resilience beating all the guys who thought they were tougher. It was completed not to the fanfare of crowds. Instead she was greeted shortly before 9pm on the Sunday evening by a handful of people and her dog in the dark. All patient enough to wait 33 hours for a champion. A big thank you to Mark and Hazel Marchant, the volunteers and Greener Miles Running. Their stamina and good humour throughout made this an amazing and not to be forgotten event. Once again a big thank you to Elisabeth for supporting with the discipline required to support me in this endeavour.

It will take a while to know what I have learnt from the experience. Afterward on Easter Monday we visited St. Mary’s Church of England in Barnard Castle. Inside the church there was something I had never seen before – a labyrinth. The ‘Instructions for use’ included the following…

“unlike a maze, it is impossible to get lost. There is only one way in and one way out. The only choice we have to make is whether or not to follow.“

No logic to the twists and turns of the labyrinth. Neither is there any reason to going round and round the same farmland.

…children have abounding vitality, they are in spirit fierce and free, therefore they want things repeated and unchanged. They always say “Do it again”, and the grown-up person does it again until he is nearly dead. For grown up people are not strong enough to exult in monotony. But God is strong enough to exult in monotony. It is possible that God says every morning, “Do it again” to the sun; and every evening, “Do it again” to the moon.”

‘Orthodoxy’ by G.K. Chesterton

One Yard At a Time

Yard 1 – 49 mins 11 secs

This January I got the disappointing news of not being selected in the lottery for the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) CCC race. For ten years I have been running other exciting races that would qualify me for entry into the lottery. These other races have been immensely enjoyable in their own right. However I realise that my desire to also get in to UTMB races has influenced what races I run. How many UTMB qualifying points does a race have? Despite the hurdles it has been a great adventure to be able to enter and complete 3 UTMB series races. You can read my write ups here. However I now feel these races are getting so popular one could spend years just trying to get a place. The training is hard enough! What the UTMB is to ultras has now become what the London Marathon is to marathons. A victim of its own success where gaining an entry place becomes as big a challenge as doing the race!

Yard 2 – 47 mins 30 secs

My ballot disappointment in January has led me to not enter anything this year just because it is a qualifier for UTMB. Instead why not think a bit ‘outside the box’ in terms of endurance events? This spring therefore I hope to do a ‘backyard’ ultra. The Cow Shed Backyard Ultra starts at 12 noon on Sat 16th April on a farm in Northumberland, England. It follows the same format as the notorious “Big Dog’s Backyard Ultra” ** started by Gary ‘Lazarus’ Cantrell. The ‘backyard’ concept embodies his idiosyncratic way of designing endurance events. Lazarus is also the founder of the even more quirky ‘Barkley marathons’. 

Yard 3 – 47 mins 45 secs

For the ‘Cow Shed’, as with other backyard races, competitors must complete a 4.17 mile trail loop (6.7km) on the hour every hour until only 1 runner remains. The ‘Cow Shed’ also has about 150 m ascent/ descent each loop. The bell will be sounded exactly on the hour and if you fail to make the starting area before the bell rings, then you are  disqualified from the event and become one of the majority who ‘Did Not Finish’ (DNF). There will be only 1 who does not receive a DNF and she/he is the winner!

Yard 4 – 50 mins 41 secs

How has my training been going? I have been practising running on similar terrain and same distance loops as the event will be. A mixture of farmland, single-track trail and woodland dirt tracks. Most times I have sat in the car on breaks. On its own I can complete a loop fairly comfortably in under an hour and have been generally doing 50 minute loops. This gives me 8-10 minute breaks before starting again. I can lie or sit, eat or whatever during the break time. Problem is as I tire and go slower my breaks get less. This is just when you want more rest! It sounds like the experience on the day will be quite social. Unlike normal ultras the field will not be stretched out over many kilometres as everyone still in the race is back together on the start line each hour.

Yard 5 – 50 mins 26 secs

During training the most I have done is 7 ‘loops’ (or ‘yards’ as they are known). Doing that same route over and over every hour you could get tired of the same views. However on each of the 7 ‘yards’ on my recent run I took the views shown in this blog. Each taken at a different point on my route each time I went round. I hope you will agree it was a scenic route.

Yard 6 – 53 mins 09 secs

During the event disqualification will be by either not making a loop in an hour or not starting to do another loop. Deciding not to begin a new ‘yard’ is the most common way people get knocked out. As Lazarus says ‘it’s easy until it’s not’. 

Yard 7 – 54 mins 43 secs

4.17 miles each hour sounds an odd distance to cover but that is 100 miles (160km) in 24 hours. I have ran more than 24 hours but never at such a pace. I usually slow down considerably with stomach problems and fatigue after 10 or so hours. So it is an open question as to how many ‘yards’ I can complete. Maybe getting hourly breaks is something that changes how I cope. For better or worse! 

** The BBC have done an article on Big Dog’s. A 15 minute youtube video also gives a good feel for this type of race.